Ghost
Beowulf & This House Of Sky Conditions
Went to climb Beowulf, first two pitches climb well but are very wet. A pool above the 2nd pitch prevents access to the rest of the climb. Temperatures were above 0C @ 1100 on the north side of the valley. The ground was unfrozen and soft from 0900 onwards.
This House of Sky was in great condition with all hardware accessible and minimal snow on route. Temperatures were stable around -6C from 1200 to 1500 when were were on the climb. The ground was frozen and made for a slippery descent down to the car (microspikes would be great).
ethan_woodside,
Sunday 12th January, 2025 1:00PM
This house of Sky
Next to no snow along the route. Walk off is dry. Great conditions along the climb!
avalanche.safety,
Saturday 14th December, 2024 1:09PM
Avalanche Forecast
Published: May 12th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Published: May 8th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Loose Wet.
Published: May 5th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Loose Wet.
Published: May 4th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Storm Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs, Loose Wet.
Published: May 3rd, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Storm Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs, Loose Wet.
Published: May 2nd, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Apr 27th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Apr 15th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Apr 8th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Apr 4th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Loose Wet, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Apr 3rd, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Apr 1st, 2024Wicked Wanda - ice
* The drive was straight forward however ruts are deep in places.
* Approach was mostly well boot packed until closer to the climb. Then previous tracks were well buried in newly drifted snow. In punching new tracks it seems an old crust sits under 10-15cm of newer snow. This crust would break as body weight was applied but was hard to break with just a foot sometimes. Overall depth was knee to hip, likely from being wind deposited in the drainage bottom.
* First pitch was actually a little brittle in spots. Dry and protected well initially. Nearing the entrance to the cave protection became a little more challenging owing to the bobbly mushroom nature of the ice. Some rattly hooking rather than the nice sticks you get lower on the pitch. It seems to be formed this way from dripping and splashing from above indicating it's been wet at some point. That splashing also caused a shell over snow just as topping out into the cave making it a challenge to get good tools but there is better ice once the shell and snow is cleared.
* The cave is quite spacious but the bolted anchor is lower than the cave floor so we used the rope to extend the belay to the upper area.
* Second pitch is fun climbing starting inside the cave. Overhanging ice leads to a narrow pillar, which leads you into a narrow hole. I chopped the hole a little bigger but wished I'd made it wider because once I was squeezing though, my little lead pack made it tight. Stepping out of the hole gave soft hero sticks in wet ice, and LOTS of splashing. Right side was wetter than it looked from the ground and a hardshell would be advised. Fortunately the groove is easier climbing with soft easy sticks and it's possible to climb it fast before moving left to dryer ice. A short way to the top then. Beware of water pooling below the snow at you top out but the ice at the top out allows screws to protect the second as well as protecting the traverse left to the bolted anchor.
* Above the climb has more snow than I've probably ever seen up there. My partner wondered if the snow near the summit might be cause for concern but I think even if an avi initiated up there and fell to the slopes below, there is sufficient flat runout it's unlikely to reach the climb. I did see signs of very small crowns where possible small slabs sluffed away but it wasn't a threat to the climb.
* From the climb, we could see Malignant Mushroom is gone. No sign of Sunshine but it looks like Fearful Symmetry may be formed. Too far away to tell quality though and the last report I saw for Aquarius said protection on Aquarius was poor so not too encouraging for anyone with desires to check out A or FS.
* Before we left it looked like water was dripping around the entrance to the cave. I wasn't sure if it was the day warming up leading to increased melt above or whether a screw hole released something after the second cleaned the top screws, or something else. Given we couldn't see it before we climbed P1 it might be a good idea to do the climb early in the day because with earlier observations this might be a daily warming and dripping to top out into the cave.
* On the descent it was quite pleasant in the sun. We got back to the car and sat having snacks and drinks while observing Orient Point. I think we could see signs of a point release avalanche from near the summit and there was lots of spindrift blowing around from the summit and ridge. Not too windy at valley bottom but was windy at the top of the climb while belaying.
Grant P,
Monday 1st April, 2024 4:10AM
Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 29th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 28th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 25th, 2024This House of Sky
-14C at trailhead at 10:00, increasing to about -4C at 16:00. The recent snowfall left ≈15cm of light, fluffy snow over a well-consolidated base. The new snow remained loose and light, even with a bit of warming later in the day.
Numerous small snowball sluffs were visible throughout the route, mostly started by tree bombs above. There was debris from a very small slide coming down from the East side above one of the the steeper snow ramps (which probably has ice underneath, but it was well covered by snow). Narrower parts of the canyon certainly call for careful risk assessment, efficient movement, and spacing out of the party. There was one random snow block the size of a large ottoman sitting by itself in the middle of the gully (odd). We chose to forego the final pitch above treeline due to concerns about snow above.
All rap anchors are accessible, mostly at knee height. While the ice pitches are short due to snow accumulation, the ice quality was good and can be expected to stay that way for the coming week at least, and potentially much longer with little to no sun hitting it.
Grant Watson,
Monday 25th March, 2024 10:20AM
Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 23rd, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 22nd, 2024North Ghost, Fang and Fist
The climb was ok, good sticks and feet but quite hard to get good screws. 2-3 inches of good ice overlies bleached sun affected old ice, resulting in screws hitting air very often past half way. There was evidence of a large full path older avalanche, with debris estimated at 2m deep below the climb, and 3-4m above. The top of last pitch had a high wall of debris similar to Professors, the tree anchor was gone, and trees at base of climb were tilted 10 degrees downslope. Right hand slope on approach also slid to the ground, with the crown reaching 1m in some spots.
Sebastian Taborszky,
Thursday 21st March, 2024 6:05PM
North Ghost
It ain't over yet! 10 to 15cm of light snow in the North Ghost today, driving is generally OK to Valley of the Birds, but very deep ruts, easy to high centre in a Tacoma on 33s with a two inch lift. Had to winch once, short dig once, ruts drifting in as we left at 15:00. VOTB entrance ice in good shape, but above that had a small stream, which the new snow was hiding, everybody had a wet foot or two. Yellow Bird in good shape with a little sun effect, Albatross OK but also sun baked, a strong party that went up to the Eagle did not do it, they reported that it looked "delaminated , baked and bad." GBU looked better than expected, still OK on the right? Nobody else in the North Ghost today that we saw. Some newer and good sized cornices at ridgetop on north and east facing slopes, plus cross/reverse loading with the upslope easterlies. Ridgetop winds looked north at light to moderate today in the short glimpse we had.. May be some "odd/unexpected" slabs in places due to the sub-ridgetop upslope east winds during the storm and now the return of the westerlies to redistribute the storm's new snow.
Will Gadd,
Thursday 21st March, 2024 5:30PM
Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Persistent Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 21st, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Persistent Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 21st, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 20th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 20th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 20th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 20th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Loose Wet, Persistent Slabs, Cornices.
Published: Mar 17th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Loose Wet, Persistent Slabs, Cornices.
Published: Mar 17th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Loose Wet, Persistent Slabs, Cornices.
Published: Mar 16th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Cornices, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 15th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Cornices, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 14th, 2024This house of sky
Above this house of sky we noted a large pile (potentially sz 3ish) of debris with no noticeable crown. Did not slide over climb, but was very close. Also lots of cracking and whumpfing throughout the day, so we decided not to attempt the WI4 pitch above the climb. Actual climb seems to have lots of snow from the recent large snowfalls, which has made the pitches a lot shorter.
williamhobart0,
Wednesday 13th March, 2024 6:20PM
Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Persistent Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 13th, 2024Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Wind Slabs, Persistent Slabs, Deep Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 12th, 2024Hydrophobia
Did not climb due to spindrift coming down the climb and loading above the climb due to unforecasted wind speed and direction not shown in Windy or on Spotwx models in the alpine above climb beforehand.
Waiparous creek road was easy to drive in a stock 4wd truck. The hike was pretty straight forward snow walking with a bit of a boot pack most of the way.
david.l.lapidus,
Saturday 24th February, 2024 9:20AM
Beowulf and driving
* Driving. TransAlta road is decent. Hard pack snow with some ice under it occasional spots. Coming out was slushy so could lead to icy spots with an overnight freeze.
Snow getting moved around by strong winds when you get in the valley. Worst section was after the old diversion dam but weekend offroader traffic may best ruts back into it again. From the dam to river Crossing 40 was the bulk of the drifting and less of a problem from there to Beowulf.
* On the first pitch, the first step is heavily sun affected. The main step has some sun effect but not as bad, has some shady spots of good ice for screws. The fracture that happened in late Dec is visible but seems stable. Rap anchors are easily accessible now.
* The middle rambles have had a lot of snow deposited and are in good shape. The first bigger step was a little wet on its left at the top out going up with a little water pooling as you went around the corner. Rapping down, the upper part was well wet.
The longer flow going into the narrow canyon was sun affected but climbed well. A short wet flow on the right entering the narrows was easily avoided.
* The end pitches were a mix of wet and dry lines. Quite a bit of fracturing on this ice.
Grant P,
Saturday 24th February, 2024 6:30AM
Blackrock
Base is very thin. Barely thick enough to ski. Until we get more snow bring your rock skis
skiasessippi,
Monday 8th January, 2024 2:40PM
Beowulf round 2
* The drive was uneventful with icy sections having snow packed over them. Only issue was driving out and going down into the double hill Dip, braking made for sliding. River Crossing mild, barely any ice shelves, and even icy ramps were ok.
* Approach still a stumble but ok.
* Was expecting it to be colder so left late hoping the midday sun would soften the climb. Gearing up in the sun was gorgeous with pretty much no wind. Surprisingly the first step was calving off large ice blocks with many swings. Figured if the main part was fracturing as bad then I'd retreat. Although there was a little fracturing it was mostly good climbing. Climb was dry and snow sat on most small ledges. Sufficient little ledges to grab a rest.
There were a couple of those clear tubes showing running water inside.
Not too steep until the upper part of the main pillar. Ice was a little featured and had a clear tube.
That led into the narrows. This gets wider as it bulks out during the season but is currently a bit of a squeeze, barely shoulder width chimney. The ice is not too well formed. Ok for tools but doubt you'd get a screw in the narrows. You should be able to place screws below the narrows though I think.
I apologise but one tool placement unleashed a little gusher. It seemed to drain mostly to climbers right side of the climb and could form some chandelier. However if it forms better ice than on the left, I'll accept beers 😂
* After reaching the top of P1 there is a deep pool open and awaiting your swim. Looked deep, about 3-4m beyond the P1 rap station. Having forgotten my swim shorts I decided round 2 with Beowulf made me tied a round each. I did not see a fracture from a week or so ago and did not see the old V-thread. Worth noting that the rap anchor at the top was easy to reach, but the one at the halfway ledge was above my reach. Hooking the anchor and holding a tool while threading the rope through may have been the crux for me. Enjoy all you long legged mofos who can just reach up and thread the rope.
* After rapping down it started feeling colder as if the temp was dropping. The road seemed to have a bit more snow accumulated but at the base of the climb it was only 2-3cm of new snow.
* Also Angel Eyes had more ice than often typical. Looked steep and the nature of the ice could make protection challenging but maybe this week's polar vortex will help fatten it.
I'd expect the -20 to -30c temps incoming may fatten things up a bit but Beowulf and other climbs are likely to become very brittle. I'm happy to have found it in good shape today.
Grant P,
Sunday 7th January, 2024 8:50PM
Beowulf - ice
* The drive was reasonable with the main issue being icy ramps in/out of River crossings. Traction on the TA road, Trappers Hill, Big Hill, and Double Hill Dip was ok however keep in mind there are icy spots currently covered with hard packed snow.
* Approach was easy and the creek hasn't made large sheets of ice to cross yet.
* Climb seemed smaller than previous pics I'd seen. It's probably easier than usual but there was rock visible not far from the ice surface in places.
First step into the canyon was not bulked out like usual. Bolted anchors are high to reach.
First pitch was not pouring water but suspect it would be later in the day. It had the look of wet ice. The leader was part way up when an almighty crack echoed down the canyon. After all looking at each other we opted to leave it alone. Given the ice is not as bulked out as usual, and seeing thinner ice over rock, we debated how well it might be bonded. Based on a very bad outcome if something came off we decided to retreat. Maybe after a good overnight freeze it could be bonded ok but a late start and a midday climb is not what you want on Beowulf right now.
The fracture extended wholly across the climb side to side. It wasn't visible from the belay but the leader saw it happen from his tool swing as it released the tension in the ice.
* GBU and Indifferent are currently in very poor shape. Middle pillar has collapsed and the whole climb has thinned out and become sun affected compared to two weeks ago. Not recommended except for taking pictures by the off roaders.
Grant P,
Saturday 30th December, 2023 12:10PM
This House of Sky
Up to 10cms of medium to low density snow had fallen without wind overnight.
The climb required lots of snow clearing.
Lots of wind transport on the surrounding peaks and ridges were noted later in the afternoon of the 23rd.
The next strong wind event will likely spice things up on the drive into the ghost, and the walkoff from THOS.
matthew.miezis,
Sunday 24th December, 2023 7:20AM
This House of Sky
Up to 10cms of medium to low density snow had fallen without wind overnight.
The climb required lots of snow clearing.
Lots of wind transport on the surrounding peaks and ridges were noted later in the afternoon of the 23rd.
The next strong wind event will likely spice things up on the drive into the ghost, and the walkoff from THOS.
matthew.miezis,
Sunday 24th December, 2023 7:20AM
Fang and Fist
Windward aspects mostly scrubbed clean of last night's 2cm new snow. Some light transport at ridge top and lower in early afternoon. The terrain here is big, but generally blows off fast, and I've seldom seen debris over size 1 on west facing terrain in this area. I'd still be cautious below lee accumulation zones downwind of big fetches (Hydro, Sorcerer etc) especially with new snow or high winds but stepping out mindset on windward climbs. Nice climbing, bit wet and chandeliered in places. Drive mostly easy.
Will Gadd,
Friday 15th December, 2023 5:40PM
Sorcerer Avalanche, more than a sluff
Party of three caught in avalanche powder cloud at base of The Sorcerer. While racking up 150m away from the ice climbing, our party was encompassed in darkness and suffocating snow for five minutes. Our positioning amongst the trees helped us to stay oriented only a little, it would’ve been better to be positioned amongst larger trees with no evidence of flagging.
We allowed complacencies to over rule our decision making. There was no need to be there, winds were Intense, 30 cms of recent snowfall, we saw signs of instability. Upon retreat we observed a large crown line above the climb, this was not a typical Waiparous sluff.
RockyRaven,
Sunday 10th December, 2023 8:20PM
Hydrophobia
Sebastian Taborszky,
Sunday 10th December, 2023 10:40AM
THOS - ice and avi
*Driving. Tracks were drifting in soon after passing. River crossings had minimal ice shelves but some had icy ramps. There was a report of the big hill needing chains but while traction was iffy, I was able to drive right up.
*Approach and the walking on route was ok but unsupportive snow meant it was a bit of a stumble.
*Avi hazard on the route was amongst the worst I've seen it. Avalanche Alley had more accumulation than normal although some of the slope had been scoured clean and blown to the valley bottom. Just beyond Avalanche Alley the step of ice that has the small chute feeding onto it was active with a few spindrift avalanches feeding down.
*Current conditions would warrant the consideration of Avi gear use.
*Throughout Avalanche Alley and through the mid canyon pitches, into the upper canyon, a lot of snow has blown into the canyon and below many steps. It makes for slow passage as trail breaking is extremely tedious. A lot of wallowing and digging is required and previous tracks quickly got filled in. At times it was waist to chest deep sugar and felt soul suckingly bottomless.
*As we got into the upper pitches in the canyon the wind got very strong and spindrift was at times constant. Topping out steps meant getting sandblasted by ice crystal like snow. Between the drifting snow and the potential for small avalanches on the walk off we considered rapping instead of the walk off.
*Ice conditions on route varied a little bit since snice and shells were common. The sound of running water was often heard. Smaller lower angle steps or top outs often had running surface water under snow and slushy conditions were common. Typically the climbing was easy but some steps had ice that would be tricky to get good screws because of wet snow freezing or slush. Sometimes it was easier just to keep climbing.
*We turned around two pitches from the top of the canyon. As we approached the second last pitch which was the lower angled step, the wind and spindrift were relentless, then we witnessed a small avalanche from the gulch to it's left. All the wallowing through deep snow probably made this one of the longest ascents I've had on THOS.
Grant P,
Sunday 10th December, 2023 1:20AM
The Joker Approach Climb Slide
Left gear behind on the climb after the avalanche. If someone is up there in the next bit and is able to grab the screw, draws and the locker on the slings to the right at the top of the climb please contact 403-703-5650 and a 6 pack of your preferred beverage will be yours.
tainshn,
Saturday 9th December, 2023 5:40PM
N.Ghost, West Fork of Claw - ice
*The driving was generally straight forward and Creek crossings easy. A couple crossings had icy ramps in/out adding just a touch of spice.
*The approach up Claw Creek is the same as ever, stumble blocks. At the fork we crossed to the bank along the right side (north). It provided easy walking while it lasted.
Just after Keso, where you reach an ice step, we chose to go around the slope on the right rather than crampon up. Possibly wise as from above it looked thin ice though the short narrow canyon.
There is a boot pack to follow now however our in tracks were partially blown over so they may get hard to follow as time goes on.
*Valley bottom observations.
BlackRock Falls looked huge. Morning alpenglow was amazing.
GBU looked climbable on the left, hard on the right, and neither side is as wide or as formed as usual yet. Actually better than I expected given it sunny aspect.
Someone had posted a pic of the Sliver but it's now missing a section and not in.
Sitkas Slide looked in. The lower ice looked blue, last pitch is there.
Kesos Curtain was in although we could only see the lower steps.
*Tuk Taku. Climb is in and we belated three pitches, with some small steps and walking between belays.
Generally there was a fair amount of fracturing but the ice was pretty fat and 16cm's were easily used. 10's not really needed.
We observed some minor snow being blown down the slope beside the start of the climb. Some pockets of wind slab on route with cracking as we climbed though those slabs but mostly it was faceted.
While belaying the first pitch my partner broke a small water dam and a trickle of water came down the left side. He climbed the centre so rope stayed dry. Climbed and protected well.
As I moved above him toward flatter terrain I broke another water dam that released an enormous hydraulic. A wave of water washed down the small steps and first pitch and lasted 5-10 minutes. My warning allowed my partner to move over on his belay and stay dry. I managed to mostly flip the ropes out of the deluge in its initial stage, but he likened the wave coming at him to the scene from Indiana Jones.
The second pitch we belayed leads me to believe the climb is well under graded. It was very steep and long. Initially the ice was somewhat chandeliered but improved, with some shell needing to be broken in a couple spots.
Another walk/small steps above that lead to what would be our final belayed pitch. Another nice pitch but during the lead a small snow squall passed through. As I climbed I had some snow spindrifting on me.
Above that another low angled pitch existed. We couldn't see above that so don't know how much more of the route was left. Between the snow that was happening, the increased snow surrounding the route, and the time of day, we opted to begin descending.
We would have made the base before dark however while building the v-thread above the steep pitch, I'd put my tools down. Turns out they were almost lost in the facets and I didn't notice till after rapping. I had to jug up the ropes to get them and it was dark when we returned to the packs.
The walk out in the dark and the wind, back down the Claw Creek stumblefest was miserable. Don't forget your tools haha.
Grant P,
Monday 4th December, 2023 5:30AM
Orient Point - ice
Somewhat low snow levels on the approach. We used the bypass instead of the approach ice. The Hidden Dragon approach has some steps with zero ice.
The Joker is in excellent shape. Dry, with good protection, and mostly nice swings. Winds were calm and temps meant no gloves were needed to belay. Wind picked up as we were leaving and were strong & gusty by 11am.
Hooker and CSM were not in and although coming along reasonably well, I wouldn't consider Hidden Dragon to be in good shape yet.
Although there was low snow levels in the area and below the climb, what was there had quite a surface crust that wasn't easy to punch through while plunge stepping.
Not sure if the crust was rain or wind induced. Not a solar aspect for a sun crust.
Grant P,
Wednesday 29th November, 2023 9:38PM
Orient Point
Windy Day in the ghost with very little snow available for transport, most areas are bare/below threshold with no accumulation through the day. Gully features holding enough snow for small avalanches, but we had no concerns with mature snow and mild temperatures.
Good plastic ice on the Joker, nothing else fully formed (see photos)
Drive in was summer like.
adamcgreenberg,
Wednesday 29th November, 2023 9:38PM
This House of Sky descent
Sean La Rose,
Friday 24th March, 2023 8:00AM
Malignant Mushroom
<p>Malignant Mushroom
Driving conditions to the North Ghost were challenging. After several tows out of drifts and much shoveling we turned around and went to the South Ghost. As we left the off-road crew arrived and plowed the trails so access is better now. The drive in to the south was uneventful.
-19C at the car in Devil's Gap at 1030am. We broke trail to The climb. With full sun at the climb it was quite warm and water was flowing freely down the left side of the climb.
The Ice was highly featured with petals and chandeliers and few small roofs. Lots of digging and smashing through chandeliers and snice to get good screws.
Have fun.
</p>
Brett G,
Sunday 12th March, 2023 10:20AM
Black rock mountain
Spencer Michie,
Saturday 11th March, 2023 2:00PM
THOS - Ghost ice
<p>**The drive, TA road has icy surfaces in stretches where a little caution is warranted. More traction on the right going up Trappers Hill but watch for a large hole halfway up. The Big Hill is not too bad but bumpy.
**The approach. The area hasnt had any significant snowfall in a while and some of the hard packed trail can be slippery. This includes the walk off.
**The climb. In good shape mostly. The,low snow levels mean more ice still exposed rather than large accumulations burying the start of each step. Some steps are picked out or you can find fresh ice some stretches. The upper pitches got a little more brittle as you reach the top of the canyon, eplosively so if you take untravelled ice. Itook a small shovel with me to dig some of the belay anchors clear although most were still clear of getting buried. For some reason folks have been walking right past one to a tree off to the side. I assume they are a little blind or have an aversion to safe bolted anchors. A little flagging on the bolts should make them a little more eye catching now. Remember this climb is rigged to rap with a single rope but,you may need to look around or even dig the anchors out as snow accumulates.
**The descent. My buddy liked the lunch spot and the increased views with the fire; his first time up there since the 2020 fire. Follow the bootpack trail and watch for the red reflectors. The steep sections between benches can be a little slippery but has boot holes punched in. Below the handline, and after the easy section of the hill, beware booby trap flagging. As you start to go down the steeper part there was a number of flagging heading off right. Dont follow this as it seems to have been placed by hikers or someone unfamiliar with the trail. Keep following the red reflectors which diagonal down to skiers left, pass though a couple switchbacks where a trail was cut through firefall. The last steep bit to regain the approach trail also has some icy spots to be aware of. The walk off should take 45 to 55 mins.</p>
Grant P,
Sunday 22nd January, 2023 2:00AM
Kemosabe
<p>Wx: Temps hovered around just below 0C all day. There was significant wind in the valley below the climb & at the climb itself. If you ascend the shoulder to the right of the climb there is minimal avy hazard as this shoulder is completely windswept. This route was our approach to the climb.
Although the top outs on both pitches are thin, there is more than enough ice to climb comfortably (& protect). There is no suitable belay anchor at the top of pitch 1 so we established an anchor at the base of P2 & extended it back to just above the top of P1 (There is an anchor left of the top of P1 but the stance is on rock & is more designed as a rap anchor as opposed to a belay anchor. P1 goes at +3/4. *P2 is a full 60m pitch, at a grade of 5. We climbed right of center, on great ice, great pro. There is an anchor at the top of P2, 25' above the ice on the left hand wall. Just goes to show how fat this route can get. We utilized an existing V thread as part of our anchor & rapped on this V thread.
We descended the gully under the climb to reach the valley below. Given the faceted nature of the snow, I would not recommend this as an approach trail.
The snow on the cut line is supportive, only if you follow previous footsteps. </p>
ozman,
Sunday 8th January, 2023 11:50AM
North Ghost Christmas week
<p>Few bits I found interesting in the North Ghost generally from four recent rips in there:
-Overall ice conditions are good, but surprisingly wet on many routes due to the recent warm temps
-Generally the above treeline snowpack is really windblown to bare and not a major concern, but there were a lot of pockets of windslab that were very reactive down low in the gullies, as well as some extensive whumpfing. I would be concerned if getting out onto the bigger snow patches/sides of gullies, mid-route pockets, or with new snow/wind loading.
-The warm spell didn't really "fix" the facet disaster as much I hoped it would. Still all the facets you ever wanted in the Ghost. HS in the valleys ranges greatly but about 20cms in the trees, deeper deposition zones.
-This House of Sky has some terrain traps, especially near the start, that have some bigger than I expected slab debris in them. Chilkoot was less exposed than I was expecting, but same terrain traps there too if you go past Chilkoot toward Haines (and some neat small ice features up there too). Thin rain crust in some areas too. The Ghost is generally lower avalanche hazard, except when it isn't...
-You can still drive across a well-frozen bridge about 150M below the Wully crossing, which is an ice ledge disaster zone. The ledges go with 33" studded tires or full send mode below that, but metal has been bent there recently. Trapper's Hill is icy. Fine with studs or chains, but a lot of sports action there lately too.
-There's a truck-eating rock on the short, steep climb out after the last river crossing before Claw Creek (back end). This rock has bitten three trucks I know of know, you climb up onto it then get yeeted sideways on the slick ice, boom. Krave is good at welding bits back together. There's a bypass about 50M up the creekbed, OK in a double cab long box Tacoma on 33s but skid plates nice.
Happy New Year!</p>
Will Gadd,
Saturday 31st December, 2022 11:00AM
Wicked Wanda & Malignant Mushroom
<p>We attempted the North Ghost access, but without another car for supportive, snow drifts encountered, and strong winds likely forming more drifts throughout the day, we opted for the South Ghost. Nothing notable to report for the drive into the South. On the approach to Wicked Wanda, we experienced a whumpf and shooting cracks and walked through punchy wind affect snow and/or unsupported facets. The ice on Wicked Wanda was very solid and took numerous swings to get a good stick. P2 felt stiff for the grade and had a few interesting pedal formations growing near the top of the climb. We then approached Malignant Mushroom and the right side was dripping wet. We decided not to climb it due to the time of day and wet spray being blown around by the wind. Between -3 and -6 degrees C today.</p>
tsr.yau,
Saturday 24th December, 2022 5:40PM