Kemosabe

<p>Wx: Temps hovered around just below 0C all day. There was significant wind in the valley below the climb & at the climb itself. If you ascend the shoulder to the right of the climb there is minimal avy hazard as this shoulder is completely windswept. This route was our approach to the climb. Although the top outs on both pitches are thin, there is more than enough ice to climb comfortably (& protect). There is no suitable belay anchor at the top of pitch 1 so we established an anchor at the base of P2 & extended it back to just above the top of P1 (There is an anchor left of the top of P1 but the stance is on rock & is more designed as a rap anchor as opposed to a belay anchor. P1 goes at +3/4. *P2 is a full 60m pitch, at a grade of 5. We climbed right of center, on great ice, great pro. There is an anchor at the top of P2, 25' above the ice on the left hand wall. Just goes to show how fat this route can get. We utilized an existing V thread as part of our anchor & rapped on this V thread. We descended the gully under the climb to reach the valley below. Given the faceted nature of the snow, I would not recommend this as an approach trail. The snow on the cut line is supportive, only if you follow previous footsteps. </p>

Weather Conditions

Windy.