Beowulf - ice

Grant P , Saturday 30th December, 2023 12:10PM

* The drive was reasonable with the main issue being icy ramps in/out of River crossings. Traction on the TA road, Trappers Hill, Big Hill, and Double Hill Dip was ok however keep in mind there are icy spots currently covered with hard packed snow. * Approach was easy and the creek hasn't made large sheets of ice to cross yet. * Climb seemed smaller than previous pics I'd seen. It's probably easier than usual but there was rock visible not far from the ice surface in places. First step into the canyon was not bulked out like usual. Bolted anchors are high to reach. First pitch was not pouring water but suspect it would be later in the day. It had the look of wet ice. The leader was part way up when an almighty crack echoed down the canyon. After all looking at each other we opted to leave it alone. Given the ice is not as bulked out as usual, and seeing thinner ice over rock, we debated how well it might be bonded. Based on a very bad outcome if something came off we decided to retreat. Maybe after a good overnight freeze it could be bonded ok but a late start and a midday climb is not what you want on Beowulf right now. The fracture extended wholly across the climb side to side. It wasn't visible from the belay but the leader saw it happen from his tool swing as it released the tension in the ice. * GBU and Indifferent are currently in very poor shape. Middle pillar has collapsed and the whole climb has thinned out and become sun affected compared to two weeks ago. Not recommended except for taking pictures by the off roaders.