Banff
Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs.
Published: Mar 28th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs.
Published: Mar 28th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs, Loose Wet.
Published: Mar 27th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs, Loose Wet.
Published: Mar 26th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 25th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 24th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 24th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs.
Published: Mar 23rd, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs.
Published: Mar 23rd, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 22nd, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 21st, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 21st, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 20th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Wind Slabs.
Published: Mar 20th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Loose Wet.
Published: Mar 19th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Loose Wet.
Published: Mar 18th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 17th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 17th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs.
Published: Mar 16th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs.
Published: Mar 16th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs.
Published: Mar 15th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs.
Published: Mar 14th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs.
Published: Mar 14th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Persistent Slabs, Storm Slabs.
Published: Mar 13th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Storm Slabs, Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 12th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Storm Slabs, Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 11th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Storm Slabs, Persistent Slabs.
Published: Mar 11th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Storm Slabs, Persistent Slabs, Loose Dry.
Published: Mar 10th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Storm Slabs, Persistent Slabs, Loose Dry.
Published: Mar 10th, 2025Avalanche Forecast
Problems: Storm Slabs, Persistent Slabs, Loose Dry.
Published: Mar 10th, 2025Spray River Falls
Spray River Falls has seen enough traffic that there is a well trodden trail to the base of the climb. There are options to avoid a fair bit of the gully by utilizing game trails on the ridge either side. We were 1:40 to the base. Micro-spikes are recommended.
P1: 35m on WI3 to a screw/V-thread anchor. Hike 70m to the base of the main ice flow.
P2: 30m on WI3/4 to a screw/V-thread anchor if you climb to the LH base of the piller, There is a 2 bolt anchor on the right of the piller base.
P3: 40m on WI5 if you climb up & past the new rap anchor & continue to a cave behind the final ice curtain. Although the lower piller is picked out the climbing is steep to overhung. Higher up I found the ice to be brittle & dinner plating, on vertical ice.
P4: 25m on WI4 (?) to a slung White Bark Pine Tree. There's only 5m of climbing & the rest is a hike to the tree.
Rappel: We rapped off the tree to the new anchor, from there 70m ropes got us to the bottom of P2. A 70m hike followed by one 35m rap off an existing V thread had us back at the gear up spot.
Wx: Temps were in the -5C for most of the day, wind was calm & the sun overcast.
There was evidence of a small loose wet <Sz1, lookers left just below the gear up area, maybe this occurred during a warm spell. At the very top of the climb I feel snow depth was about 30-50cms. We didn't probe around too much though.
ozman,
Sunday 7th January, 2024 9:00AM
Bear Sprit Approach
michael.lawee1,
Wednesday 20th December, 2023 8:40PM
Urs Hole Gully (Cascade Mountain)
chiropetersen,
Saturday 9th December, 2023 10:00AM
Cascade Mountain
Class 2 or 3 avalanche viewed from Highway 1 in the gully to the right of Cascade Falls.
chiropetersen,
Saturday 9th December, 2023 9:30AM
Urs Hole and more - ice
Left the car at daybreak and the forecast freeze didn't happen. +2 around 8am.
A party ahead of us decided against trying it and a party behind us decided against. Two more parties arrived as we returned to the base.
The amount of overhead snow seemed to have melted with warm temps and some rain so we were a little happy about that aspect. Unfortunately that extra water flow in the drainage has had a significant negative impact here and climbs just west.
Over on Rogans the top of the first pitch is gone along with the next steeper pitch. Rogans is not in.
Cascade Falls is missing many sections of ice. Not in.
Back to URS Hole where the first pitch is a shell. Delicate climbing and a very delicate top out is needed using the left side. Open holes and shells throughout the climb.
From the chain anchor I climbed two steps to the second chain anchor. Yet more open holes and shell ice. Screw opportunities are there but don't expect as many placements as a novice might like.
We walked up to the next ice beside a huge chock stone. A couple days ago this would likely have been great but from down the gully it looks terrible. Slightly better up close but still steep thin shell that wouldn't take screws.
Sun came out around 9-10am and the wind picked up shortly after. Smaller ice began sloughing off the walls with the wind and temps and while I considered the chock stone ice, we decided to descend.
There were pics of this climb just 4 days previous that showed the ice being far better shape, without open holes and splashing. They had falling rocks. The climb has taken a huge hit and is not what novice leaders will be looking for until we get some overnight freezes to bring it back into shape. Hopefully that will be before the snow accumulation above shuts the climb down for the season.
Grant P,
Wednesday 29th November, 2023 9:38PM
The Little Gem ice climb.
Took the old tools for a walk up to The little Gem. Didn’t climb it due to a later than anticipated start and time constraints.
It’s a good 3 hour approach from the trail head. There’s a path punched in now.
I would not want to be in this zone after then next snowfall.
The approach goes through challenging avalanche terrain. Lots of evidence of large slides in the approach drainage.
Surface hoar crystals were from 8mm to 15mm.
Snow in the drainage averaged 20cm of unconsolidated low density to facets.
Temps were -11 @ 10am at the trailhead.
-5 @ 1:30pm (2000m elevation).
matthew.miezis,
Wednesday 29th November, 2023 9:36PM
Professor Falls/Sacre Bleu avalanche debris
Parks Canada,
Saturday 15th April, 2023 11:45AM
Avalanche Prof Falls
<p>Saw large avalanche debris in upper part of Professor Falls from highway yesterday. Thought we would do a quick lap of the first couple of pitches very early this AM (still below freezing). We ran into very large blocks of avalanche debris piled up well before we got to the base of the climb. Pitch one has only about the top 1/4 left above the debris. The anchors at the top of the pitch were well buried. The anchors at the top of the second pitch are still available and un-damaged.</p>
dbfoster,
Friday 14th April, 2023 1:20PM
Natural avalanche cycle up to size 3 in the Banff area.
Parks Canada Visitor Safety,
Tuesday 11th April, 2023 3:20PM
Professor Falls ice conditions
<p>Professor Falls April 8 2023
Warm day and cloudy, we did the approach on mtb from the parking lot of Bow falls, most of the pavement was clear ,some sections slushy snow
At the base we saw a party of 3
The ice is in fairly good condition but very wet ,make sure bring a good gore tex and gloves
Pitch 1: fat and blue ,very wet like river
Pitch 2: center line half lower part was ok the ice , very wet
Pitch 3: fat and blue ,very wet, I choose the left side and mostly dry !
Pitch 4: fat,blue and plastic fairly dry
Pitch 5: good ice and wet
Pitch 6: i decided left side dry and mushrooms, bring long ice screws to protect!!! Some crusty ice sections
Disclaimer!!! Make your own assessment before you go, getting warmer and ice conditions can change quickly, this was my experience today , no signs of avalanche debris
Have fun and be safe !!
</p>
zolar.marquez,
Sunday 9th April, 2023 1:00AM
TPF ice
<p>**Road through the golf course to the fork was easy to bike but was a mix of clear asphalt, icy surface, or ploughed snow scraped almost clear. Beyond the fork is ice covered with new snow. Today was reasonable traction.
**First three pitches were great condition and dry. Fourth pitch had an easily avoidable wet streak. Higher pitches in good shape with only one pitch being somewhat wet.
**There was around 10cm of recent snow. It worked nice for catching falling ice between pitches but also factored into our consideration of avi risk. While winds were almost calm and we observed no transport of snow, it could become a factor once winds start moving the new snow around. The morning was sunny becoming mostly cloudy in the afternoon. During the sunny part, my partner noted some pinwheeling on a sunny aspect on climbers right of the drainage. Ultimately despite what was probably acceptable snow conditions, we chose to skip the exposed walk to the final pitch.
**There were 4 rope teams on the route, and all arrived at the base within a short time span. A soloist beat us there and made short work of the whole route. It was somewhat social climbing and it was nice to see the level of cooperation and accommodation between all. To speed things up a little, after the first pitch myself and partner climbed the right side of pitches 2 to 4. Traffic favoured the left side of these pitches but the right sides climbed and protected well.
**A couple bolted anchors were getting hard to find under snow or ice. Here is a hint list for which side to look.
P1 left. P2 left (dual stations). P3 (the W3 sometimes linked with P2) left. P4 right (getting covered with ice). P5 (short step leading to a short walk. Next two steps have anchors on the right.
We descended from here so cant say definitively which side for the short step but look on the right after the final pitch.</p>
Grant P,
Tuesday 4th April, 2023 10:40PM
Bearspirit - ice
<p>**Approach in decent shape, used crampons from the creek to the ice but the ice step itself was easy. A couple of windfallen trees cross the trail towards the climb. Not too hard to step over/under and between but somewhat large diameter and it would take a large saw to cut them.
**Curtain on the left side collapsed in the past so at this point in the season its unlikely to touch down and consolidate. Right side is decent although the middle groove and the prow on the right side were dripping and/or chandeliered. Right side of the curtain has seen plenty of traffic.
**Smaller flow off to the right is well formed on the right and travelled. Left edge features some unsupported ice which can be climbed with a delicate touch. There is a small hole towards the top that provides a tight passage and awkward yet fun climbing to climb through from the back side to the front. Definitely contrived yet fun.
**Day started warm in nice sunny climbing. Sun is high enough in the sky now for morning sun unlike shorter December days where the ice is shaded. Shade arrives midday and it felt a touch cooler again. Sunny all day with mild temps and only light winds with no snow transport observed.</p>
Grant P,
Friday 31st March, 2023 3:20AM
Avalanche Above La Goutte
Parks Canada Visitor Safety,
Wednesday 29th March, 2023 11:50AM
Spray River Falls - Ice climbing
<p>More new snow than expected from recent storms in the approach up the avalanche track just below the climb and on steep rocky terrain in the ALP. Cloudy early am today in this region. Within 30 minutes of solar exposure, several significant sluffs hit the first step of the climb. We got the message and promptly descended.</p>
sfluker,
Tuesday 28th March, 2023 7:00PM
Avalanche Above Sacre Bleu Iceclimb
Parks Canada Visitor Safety,
Wednesday 15th March, 2023 7:00PM
Small slide under Sulfur gondola
aidan.brushett,
Wednesday 1st March, 2023 5:20PM
Fresh Slabs on Rundle
Parks Canada Visitor Safety,
Friday 24th February, 2023 11:00AM
Urs Hole size 4
Parks Canada Visitor Safety,
Monday 20th February, 2023 11:00AM
Professor Falls
<p>Mild temps, cloudy day. P1 was quite wet but progressively got drier the higher up we went. The last pitch felt more sustained than on previous years. Fun climbing. There are some avoidable areas between pitches where you can break through the ice and get a boot full of water.
No avalanches or avalanche debris observed, however, the start zone directly above the last pitch looks quite fat with snow. Didn't get a chance to get a photo of this, unfortunately.</p>
tsr.yau,
Friday 16th December, 2022 8:10PM
Cascade Falls
<p>Mainly cloudy skies today with S-1 snowfall throughout the AM, calm winds. 5cm of new snow (at noon) and 15cm of wind blown snow sits over a sun crust. Overall, the ice climbed well with small sections that had a breakable shell. Caution open water on approach gully and in thinner sections of the climb, both were avoidable.</p>
tsr.yau,
Monday 5th December, 2022 2:30PM
Spray River Falls Ice Climb.
aaron.93.harris,
Saturday 26th November, 2022 9:30AM
Bear Spirit November 16, 2022
<p>Ice climbed moderate right flows of Bear Spirit that are in. Left flow is not dropping down yet and not in. Not much snow on slopes above approach route, slopes of concern seemed below threshold. </p>
david.l.lapidus,
Thursday 17th November, 2022 9:32AM
Bear Spirit November 16, 2022
<p>2cm new snow, low wind down low, less than 15cm of snow on the ground and not much in the slopes and cliff bands above on approach.
Ice conditions decent on the right side WI3 Bear Spirit flows, with a thin top out. Ice conditions poor on left WI4 flow, pillar not even touching down fully yet. Ice conditions on approach step to main flow areas were thin. River crossings on approach was pretty straightforward. </p>
david.l.lapidus,
Thursday 17th November, 2022 9:32AM
Cascade falls
<p>Ice conditions were good, lots of flow under the ice in spots but good pro where needed. The surface hoar in the bowl above the climb is massive, photo included</p>
graeme8881,
Monday 14th November, 2022 9:30AM
Cascade Falls
<p>Climbed Cascade Falls today. Ice conditions were so-so. Lots of thin shell ice over running water, and dry snow over rock slabs on the outside edges of the climb. Crux pitch climbed and protected ok on the left side but felt a little harder than WI3. Walk off was boney with 5-15cm of dry unconsolidated snow over hard ground. No avalanches observed, no slab properties in the snow where we travelled. Surface hoar up to 2mm present in open areas up to treeline. </p>
krisirwin,
Sunday 13th November, 2022 9:30AM
Urs Hole
<p>We tried for Urs Hole today and bailed before the snow plug after climbing 5/6 short ice steps and going a few hundred meters up the canyon. More snow than we wanted in the canyon and on the mountain, more sluffing than we wanted from both sides of the canyon, including one big enough to knock someone off a climb. The ice steps have some shell and some water holes at the base, all topouts are thin and scratchy. Slow going through knee/thigh deep snow and some deeper drifts. The general feel was that it wasn't right, so we bailed early.</p>
Sebastian Taborszky,
Thursday 10th November, 2022 9:30AM