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Pointless - ice

Grant P, Wednesday 29th November, 2023 9:37PM
Cold leaving the car and around the lake where a breeze kept it feeling cold. We followed the shoreline trail as the lake wasn't frozen a week ago but there were plenty of skaters on the lake later. Thankfully there is a well established bootpack trail to follow because the bushwhacking is quite bushy at times. Two parties ahead of us and two parties behind us today. Had to wait some time to get on the route but very sunny and pleasant while waiting. First pitch has sun to mid day. First pitch is pretty good ice and getting screws is easy enough. Wet on the right but most people chose the middle. There is a nut and piton anchor on the left in a right facing corner hard to see as you top out. Second "pitch" is low angle with sufficient snow to more or less walk up to the base of the final pitch. The snow at the top seemed to be catching most ice fall today. Final pitch is steeper than it looks and longer. Everyone climbed the left side. Right side was wet with a lot of daggers and overhanging ice to get through. Middle looked somewhat more solid climbing but hard to protect. Left side was featured, hard to find screws without hitting air pockets. Lots of hooking with some fracturing and more pumpy than it looked. Consensus was that the last pitch was harder than the first. Aimless Gully I only saw the upper part which looked rather grey. Another person went from Pointless to Aimless, said there was a trail sideways, but that it looked grey and not as good as Pointless. Snow levels seemed relatively low and many slopes looked fairly wind scoured. Didn't observe any snow transport though and snow seemed stable without too much faceting below the route and some faceting on the route. We had trouble retrieving the ropes on the last pitch. The next party up said it looked like it was just friction through snow and around the rock at the top without any obvious problem but noted that our efforts to pull had damaged the one cord on the tree. I believe they removed the damaged cord. Someone had placed a thread in the ice further right just below the top out, possibly to make an easier rope pull. Would suggest first rapper down try a test pull to ensure you don't have issues.

Location: 51.66639699 -116.49332472