Shooting Star ice climbing conditions, Mt Wilson

<p>We attempted Shooting Star (ice climb) on Mt Wilson and retreated after 40m or so because of ice conditions and warmer than expected temperatures. The whole ice feature was badly sun and heat affected even in the shade. Screws were very questionable, had 1 screw that l trusted. There is air and/or water behind the ice from side to side, and it sounded hollow during the whole time. The last few meters the tools were fully hooking through the ice. Once the sun hit around 11am temperatures spiked very quickly. Bailed on a double vthread. Dancing with Chaos, climbed last week, lost the lower 1/3 that just fell off. Lots of water coming out from under the upper ice. In general anything in the sun looked pretty baked. Ice 9 is not there, upper Tabernacle bowl had big baked ice, and the upper lady's cleavage too. Snow is bellow threshold on approach, a few crusty spots, lots of surface hoar in the creek. No sign of propagation anywhere.</p>

Snow Conditions

Powder.

Weather Conditions

Warm, Sunny.