Murchison Falls

Trip report from Saturday. We basically climbed the left hand side of Murchison Falls, the red dots being our belays., there was another party on our right. The ice on the climb is quite brittle & extremely hard. Although our tools were sharp they constantly bounced off the ice. There isn't much snow on the big ramp above the normal gear up area. Keep an eye out for ice fall if there's already another party on the climb. The belay to start P1 is sheltered & large enough for a few climbers. The belay at the start of P2 is also sheltered but really a 1 climber stance. The belay at the start of the last pitch is an expansive cave. Each belay can be reached with a 70m rope. From the top the first rap is on rings. 65m rap to an existing V thread. (the location is a little hard to find but scope it out from the cave belay as it's on the same ledge system). From here rap 70 m to another V thread. From here you can rap directly to the fixed anchor at the top of a narrow rock gully. (As you approach Murchison Falls this gully is the furthest left of the approach ice). A final 30m rap gets you down to the gear up spot. (Yesterday we broke up P2 & P3 into 2 pitched each. P2 we broke up to avoid icefall from a party ahead. P3 we broke up to switch leads. In previous ascents I have climbed these pitches in their entirety) Wx: It was cloudy all day with temps above 0c. The wind above the route picked up around 2:00pm & we endured spindrift on the upper section of the climb. Didn't see any avy debris from the gully on the right of the final approach.