Urs Hole and more - ice

Left the car at daybreak and the forecast freeze didn't happen. +2 around 8am. A party ahead of us decided against trying it and a party behind us decided against. Two more parties arrived as we returned to the base. The amount of overhead snow seemed to have melted with warm temps and some rain so we were a little happy about that aspect. Unfortunately that extra water flow in the drainage has had a significant negative impact here and climbs just west. Over on Rogans the top of the first pitch is gone along with the next steeper pitch. Rogans is not in. Cascade Falls is missing many sections of ice. Not in. Back to URS Hole where the first pitch is a shell. Delicate climbing and a very delicate top out is needed using the left side. Open holes and shells throughout the climb. From the chain anchor I climbed two steps to the second chain anchor. Yet more open holes and shell ice. Screw opportunities are there but don't expect as many placements as a novice might like. We walked up to the next ice beside a huge chock stone. A couple days ago this would likely have been great but from down the gully it looks terrible. Slightly better up close but still steep thin shell that wouldn't take screws. Sun came out around 9-10am and the wind picked up shortly after. Smaller ice began sloughing off the walls with the wind and temps and while I considered the chock stone ice, we decided to descend. There were pics of this climb just 4 days previous that showed the ice being far better shape, without open holes and splashing. They had falling rocks. The climb has taken a huge hit and is not what novice leaders will be looking for until we get some overnight freezes to bring it back into shape. Hopefully that will be before the snow accumulation above shuts the climb down for the season.