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Spray River Falls

ozman, Sunday 7th January, 2024 9:00AM
Spray River Falls has seen enough traffic that there is a well trodden trail to the base of the climb. There are options to avoid a fair bit of the gully by utilizing game trails on the ridge either side. We were 1:40 to the base. Micro-spikes are recommended. P1: 35m on WI3 to a screw/V-thread anchor. Hike 70m to the base of the main ice flow. P2: 30m on WI3/4 to a screw/V-thread anchor if you climb to the LH base of the piller, There is a 2 bolt anchor on the right of the piller base. P3: 40m on WI5 if you climb up & past the new rap anchor & continue to a cave behind the final ice curtain. Although the lower piller is picked out the climbing is steep to overhung. Higher up I found the ice to be brittle & dinner plating, on vertical ice. P4: 25m on WI4 (?) to a slung White Bark Pine Tree. There's only 5m of climbing & the rest is a hike to the tree. Rappel: We rapped off the tree to the new anchor, from there 70m ropes got us to the bottom of P2. A 70m hike followed by one 35m rap off an existing V thread had us back at the gear up spot. Wx: Temps were in the -5C for most of the day, wind was calm & the sun overcast. There was evidence of a small loose wet <Sz1, lookers left just below the gear up area, maybe this occurred during a warm spell. At the very top of the climb I feel snow depth was about 30-50cms. We didn't probe around too much though.

Location: 51.13704000 -115.55829000