Avalanche Gulch - Helen Lake to Misery Hill

On 6/9, two rangers ascended on foot with skis on our packs from Helen Lake, climbing right of The Heart to Thumb Rock. Notable changes on route include softer and more textured snow surfaces. More rock has also melted out and is exposed throughout the upper mountain, increasing the potential for rockfall. 

No overnight re-freeze was experienced at Helen Lake. Surfaces were primarily soft, “breakable mush” in the morning hours. A boot pack has been established to climbers right of The Heart to Thumb Rock. The boot pack made for easier travel, but puts climbers directly beneath the fall line of other climbers. Climbing out of the boot pack is possible, just a bit more arduous because of the mushy conditions. No rockfall was observed while on route, however significant signs of past rock fall were observed, like rocks on top of the snow. The Red Banks chutes (right side) are still holding good snow coverage and is a good route choice. 

Climbing to the Thumb remains an option, however, the conditions on this route are changing rapidly. The snow has melted away from the rock, creating deep open voids (bergshrunds) and snow bridges. While not a major issue at this time, it will continue to melt and open up. This section demands more technical maneuvering and poses a higher risk of falling. We recommend climbing through the Notch (see pictures) to gain the ridge that connects you to upper Red Banks and on your way to Misery Hill. These are low, fifth class moves that requires both hands. 

Upper Red Banks and Misery Hill are holding consistent snow coverage, though rock is starting to poke through, specifically on the south, and southwest aspect. 

The recent warm temperatures resulted in increased potential for point release, wet slides. Numerous new wet loose slides were observed on the upper mountain, specifically off the south aspect of Casaval Ridge. These slides were not very large (D1), and most likely were triggered from rockfall.