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King Creek - ice

Grant P, Saturday 2nd December, 2023 4:30PM
*Approach is decent well packed snow but watch for a couple icy spots under snow. Creek crossings are easy enough. *Available ice is limited. I think a couple parties came and left. We let one party take a climb on our rope, and one party left to check Evan Thomas but ultimately returned to take a late shift, reporting Moonlight and Snowline were not in good shape. *The Gully Flow is narrow and reasonably formed, but dry and brittle with plenty of fracturing. Protects well with ample opportunity to use 16cm screws. *Left Cave Flow has minimal ice. Highly doubt any of the ice on the vertical start would accept screws, but the low angle stuff above might take stubbies. Consider it not in. Nobody climbed it so far afaik. Open Creek below the base and didn't observe much flow helping to build the climb. *Right Cave Flow is not in. Virtually no ice visible except for the back of the cave. Open water at the base and no flow to begin the ice formation. *Main Flow looks to have sufficient ice to protect but it's still relatively narrow and it seems only one party at a time can climb it.maybr half the width of typical atm. *Magic Touch looks ok but potentially still thin for screws. At least it looked a nice blueish colour. *So until the Main Flow and both Cave Flows fatten up there is essentially room for three rope teams only. *Weather was on the cool side. Although the temp at the car seemed to be around -4c, it felt colder much of the day. There was a bit of wind blowing up the canyon but no snow transport observed at any elevation.There was a little light snow for a little while around midday. Accumulated <1cm. Walking out I noted a new dusting of snow on the canyon walls. *Avalanche gullies all had at least some snow. South facing didn't look to have much accumulation but neither was it largly melting. North facing were shaded. *Besides feeling cool much of the day it was a cloudy start with little sun. Some sunny breaks as we drove away early afternoon.

Location: 50.71859404 -115.09278617