Ice - Ghost. Sorcerer

**Approach had shooting cracks walking up the Johnson Lakes trail and to a lesser extent in the approach drainage. **Ice on lower pitches very thin. Tools hitting rock and limited opportunities even for 10cm screws. P1 is largely buried with accumulated spindrift so P1 and 2 can be combined into one. **RAP ANCHORS** the anchor at the top of the narrows before the snow patch (P2) has only one bolt. Second bolt is missing the hanger and the self drive stud. The anchor at the top of the apron (P3) was not seen but could be buried in accumulated spindrift. Of limited use with the only intact pillar being in the middle and no easy way to protect the traverse.

It was snowing much of the day. Spindrift from steep walls was ongoing to varying degrees. As we were rapping five larger spindrift avalanches occurred. These were larger and longer than the minor spindrift during the day. Maybe not enough to knock a leader off but definitely would cause them to hunker down till passed and hope their hood was up. The climb is steep on the upper part but the halfway snow patch and the lower pitches are less than vertical. The larger spindrift dumps seemed to come from above however for the most part the creek above the climb is horizontal so there would appear to be little potential for more serious slab avalanches so I'm a little puzzled as to the source. It could maybe be an indication of building cornices from wind transport.

During the time we were away from the car there was over 10cm accumulated by the time we got back and still snowing. Temps were chilly with the wind although snow was melting a little on clothing so likely around the freezing mark or a little below.