Quick report
Today's objective was to assess climbing conditions on the upper portion of Avalanche Gulch, as well as search for any developing hazards. Above Lake Helen, the mountain has excellent coverage. An early season boot pack has been established from Helen to The Heart. The Heart, Short Hill, and Misery Hill are completely covered in snow. The Red Banks chutes are wide, supportable, and has a light boot pack already established. Snow surface conditions are quite variable, including wind board, soft snow, ice, and old avalanche debris. The firm surface conditions allowed for smooth and efficient climbing.
A decent amount of rime ice is still clinging on to the Red Banks and Trinity Chutes, posing a continued threat of ice fall to climbers below. Evidence of rock fall is scattered all across Upper Avalanche Gulch.
Despite the consistent strong wind, no significant blowing snow was observed. No instabilities were observed.Weather
- Air Temp
- 35
- Cloud Cover
- broken
- Wind Loading
- none
- Recent Snowfall
- 0
- Snow Avail For Transport
- small smounts
Skies were mostly clear until midday, after which the summit became socked in. The wind was calm and unnoticeable below 11,000 feet, then strengthened with elevation. Above the Red Banks, strong wind blew out of the northwest. In wind sheltered areas, temperatures climbed above freezing to around 12,000 feet. In wind exposed areas, temperatures stayed low.
Snowpack
Snow softened up to 12,000 feet by midday, though softening was only in the two couple inches of the snowpack. Lower elevation terrain (below 9,000 feet) was very soft through the majority of the day, penetrating deeper into the snowpack. Overnight refreezes are keeping surfaces smooth and preserved.