North Gate Trail

On 07-28-2024, three Rangers set out for maintenance work on the North Gate trail that leads climbers to the base camp of the Hotlum, Bolum, and Whitney Glacier climbing routes. Note that these climbing routes are significantly more remote, glaciated, steep, and subjected to rockfall and crevasse hazards than other routes on the mountain. Thus, they require more technical skill and experience. Be prepared with a plan, a glacier travel kit, a navigation device, a communication device, and the ability to self assess. 

Rangers performed tread work, rock work, trail delineation, and the removal of brush and downed trees. No running melt water was found near at Marine Camp from what we observed. The most likely water source will be melt runnels on the snow fields themselves or where snow meets rock.

At 9,000 feet, Rangers got visual on the Hotlum/Bolum and Bolum proper climbing routes. It’s late climbing season and both routes are largely dry, with sparse patches of snow beginning at 9,000 feet and transitioning to glacier travel at roughly 11,500 feet. The main chute ascending the Hotlum/Bolum ridge route is holding consistent snow coverage (see photo) with several small open crevasses observed directly below the chute. Both snow and ice surfaces were observed to be very textured and dirty from rockfall and blowing dirt. A large, open Bergschrund crowns the top of the Bolum glacier, near 13,000 feet. Dry and loose rock travel is mandatory on both of these routes above treeline. This time of year, these climbing routes can be dynamic. With not much snow on the ground and lots of loose rock, being cautious is paramount. As always, the Trailhead is stocked with all the essential items (Summit Passes, Wilderness Permits, & human waste bags) to outfit yourself for your journey. Please be respectful and leave the mountain better than you found it.