Avalanche Gulch - Helen Lake to the Summit

Memorial Day weekend on Mount Shasta was nothing short of Epic! On the upper mountain, hundreds of climbers made their way to the top, while lower down tourists and visitors alike admired from afar. 

Ascending
The route is in great shape. Overall, no major hazards like rock and ice fall were observed over the weekend. Firm surfaces require solid footwork. It's up to your mountain sense, skills, and judgment to keep you safe. 

From Helen Lake, a boot pack has been established Right of Heart up to Thumb Rock. All three of the Red Bank chutes hold continuous snow coverage. These chutes vary in steepness and make for a more direct route. The Thumb Rock route currently holds adequate room for climber passage above the Konwakiton Glacier with no technical moves. This section of route can change and degrade quickly, making travel more difficult. In this case, climbers will have to ascend through a “notch” of rock (a fourth-class move) closest to the thumb. 

Above the Red Banks, Short Hill, Misery Hill, and the Summit Plateau/Pinnacle all hold full snow coverage. Climber and skier traffic have heavily impacted all surfaces. Conditions consist mostly of rime ice, sastrugi features, melt-freeze snow, and hard pack. The summit itself is dry rock. Be careful walking on top, as you don't want to fall off.

Descending
By foot, one must walk down either through the smaller chutes of the Red Banks or back to the Thumb. If surfaces soften enough, one can glissade. Proper self-arrest and glissade skills are necessary. Never glissade through the Red Banks. They are too steep to control your speed through and will likely result in an Emergency Room visit.

Skiers can descend Right and Left of the Heart. Left of Heart is the standard ski descent. Surfaces below the Red Banks are heavily impacted and resemble a resort run. Moguled and diced up! These conditions can be challenging, especially in firm snow. Be honest with yourself and your ability level. Down climbing is always an option. Surfaces from 12,000 feet to 9,000 feet, held the best snow quality for skiing.   

Make sure to grab all the essential paperwork: Summit Pass, Wilderness Permit, and Human Waste Pack-out Bag, before heading up the mountain. These can be self-issued at Bunny Flat ($25 cash or card) or obtained at the Mount Shasta Ranger Station. 

Thank you and happy climbing!