Quick report
Snow in open areas at Bunny Flat was refrozen at 7am when I started. Temperature was in the mid 40s F. Protected areas under trees had not refrozen and had up to 0.5" of ski penetration. Snow surfaces above treeline were solidly refrozen (no ski or boot penetration) for nearly all of my climb until they started to soften around 11,000' at 11 am, but worth noting that the east side of the Gulch where I was skinning was kept in the shade of Green Butte Ridge until around 930am. In the Gulch below Helen Lake (~10,000') around 10am I started noticing the occasional rock or ice chunk bouncing down the still-refrozen snow. This ice/rockfall intensified as I climbed above Helen Lake, especially so above the last moraine above Helen Lake, where by 11am there were up to grapefruit size chunks of mostly ice coming down at 20-30mph every few seconds. The ice appeared to be coming mostly from Trinity Chutes and the climbers left side of Red Banks, and was mostly falling down the gully on the climber's left side of The Heart. After a lot of dodging and a few near misses I made my way over to the bottom of the climbing route going up the right side of The Heart (11,600'), where there was less icefall. Snow conditions on the climber's right of The Heart looked to be mostly refrozen sastrugi (compared to the left side which was smoother). I transitioned here and started skiing down at 11:40am. Temps were ~50F at this point. Above Helen Lake the snow had not yet fully remelted but was edgeable and skied pretty well. Below Helen Lake in the Gulch there was excellent corn: fast and smooth with just enough ski penetration. More westerly aspects were still a bit undercooked (~12pm), and the whole run still would have skied great at least an hour later. Below 8000' snow started getting sticky.