Kemosabe

<p>Went into the Waiparous to climb Kemosabe Jan 31st. This MIN is a reminder to be mindful re. climbing the first pitch of Kemosabe when new is falling and the wind is at least noticeable or forecasted to be gusting in the 40 km/h range. When leading the 1st pitch and just below topping out into the what is considered a small bowl, and simple terrain below the second pitch, I got hit with 3 sizeable spindrifts;the 3rd being sizeable enough to cover me, and also prolonged/ forceful enough to nearly push me off the ice. The position I was in - right below the narrow point in the notch - likely contributed here to increase the impact of the 3rd sluff but it was nearly a very bad day. Conclusion - do not recommend climbing this pitch during times of combined snowfall/wind. The wind up in that bowl moves snow around both off the bowl slopes and the sidewalls and funnels it more significantly than you may appreciate from the ground or be able to see. </p>

Snow Conditions

Powder, Wind affected.

Weather Conditions

Cold, Stormy, Windy.