Ice - Louise Falls

Banff Yoho & Kootenay National Park

Grant P , Sunday 28th March, 2021 5:40AM

The climb is mostly blue and in good shape. Minor wet sections. Fracturing was minor but a little more noticable on the left pillar. Screws mostly good. We arrived around 11am just behind another party. It looks like the only party before that was two guys with a TR set up on the first pitch on the left side but they bailed shortly after we got there. The two parties coordinated and managed to separate the lines to minimise hazards. First party took a long pitch to below the right pillar. We did a short pitch to the rock overhang then took a quick traverse to the left of their fall line while trying to minimise exposure below the hang fire above the left side. The left cave is a good belay stance and the hang fire is just far enough out or left to reduce the threat to the belay. The left pillar is fairly steep but rather hooked with good feet making it a little easier than it can be. The upper ice to the top was also dry and cruisy. Lost count of how many tourists we had to warn about the danger they were in walking to the base.

Weather conditions were: Cloudy, Sunny, Warm, Windy.

Weather

The day was pleasantly warm when we arrived at the climb. Around 2pm the wind noticably increased much as expected. No snow during the time we were there.

Avalanche

While the first party leader was around the top out it seems he triggered a slide. I didnt get to talk with them so unaware of where it actually triggered from. Could have been above the top out slope or could have been climber triggered. In the cave it just looked like spindrift but my partner said it looked solid until it hit freefall at which point it dissipated to spindrift. Maybe worth noting that the walk off had accumulated some snow across the trail in spots making it somewhat steep but with good steps kicked into it. This looks to be steep slopes shedding snow through the trees. Still reasonable to navigate but high consequence if you slipped.