Avalanche Gulch

The Avalanche Gulch climbing route is past its prime and no longer recommended this season.  

Rockfall has become a significant hazard in Avalanche Gulch. Observers have reported rockfall at all hours of the day and night - see video below. Now is a good time to pivot to other climbing routes. Less experienced climbers should consider Clear Creek. More experienced climbers may consider climbing routes out of the North Gate and Brewer Creek Trailheads. As always, rockfall hazard exists on all routes. Wear a helmet, climb and descend early in the day, and minimize your time in locations with overhead hazard. Even the best mountaineers can be hit by a rock. An ice axe, crampons, a helmet, and the skills to use them well remain mandatory on all climbing routes.

The summer climbing route is snow-free from Bunny Flat (6,900 feet) to near 50/50 Flat (9,000 feet). From 50/50 Flat, continuous snow coverage exists to the Red Banks/Thumb Rock around 12,800 feet. Above this point, Short Hill has patchy snow. Misery Hill and the Summit Pinnacle are dry ground. 

General Climbing Reminders:

• Plan for firm conditions with slide-for-life potential. 
• Glissading is possible. However, make sure that the snow is soft and that you can control your speed. Never glissade with crampons on your boots.
• Monitor the weather closely. Choose to climb on days with favorable weather, but remember that conditions can change quickly on a 14,000-foot peak. Never climb into a whiteout and have a backup plan in case things go wrong. This includes carrying equipment for self-rescue. 
• Please do your part to help keep  Mount Shasta clean - it takes a village!

See our updated Climbing Advisory for more details about climbing Mount Shasta.