Quick report

Garfield N route

Ryan StoddardWest Slopes Central
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Quick report

We climbed Garfield main summit via the North route, which starts at the Taylor River TH, approaches thru the basin to the N of the peak then finishes with 4-5 pitches of steep snow / easy mixed climbing. Snow coverage/travel conditions: No snow until 2800’. Then patchy snow, supportable crust and great for cramponing. By 3800’ we were breaking in a few inches with our boots but it was not enough to warrant putting on snowshoes. Snowshoes were not used on the trip. The climbing route had sufficient if not fat snow coverage Stability notes: no concerns about snow stability; we were glad to do this route on a cold low-low-low day in Jan since there is a lot of overhead hazard. Near the top we found evidence of old 3” wind slab, but did not propagate due to delicate crust and it was less deep then boot penetration so not a concern. Saw old avy debris in the basin