MCR Observation

Mountain Conditions Report

<p>Climbed the South Ridge of Mt Smuts on Aug 26. </p> <p>The ridge is dry after the dusting of snow earlier in the week. Several variations are possible, but we climbed generally sound ribs of limestone as well as a number of gully features to the climber's right of the ridge which were less solid. We found climbing up to 5.4/5.5 on the ribs. Several pitons were found on the route, some of which were loose. We carried an alpine rack of nuts, small to medium cams and a few pitons and made use of all of it. Protection on the route is generally sparse and requires much searching for good placements.</p> <p>Descent was made via the North Ridge and West Face. A couple of existing anchors are in place in the loose gully feature approximately 35 to 40m apart which facilitates down-climbing of this feature.</p> <p>Photo attached is of the North Face of Mt Sir Douglas.</p>