Approach: you can bike from the bridge to where the road splits. Park your bike there as it’s impossible to ride your bike beyond. Foot penetration from 10cm to 30cm all the way to the base of the climb. We encountered wind lips on the hike. Climb: pitch 1-2 & 4 extremely wet. Almost worth the scuba gear. Pitch 3 is normal wet / dry condition. Protected well. Top out on pitch 3 had massive dinner plates sculpted by the wind. We rappelled after pitch 3 due to warming trend and from calm to extremely windy conditions by 11:15am. We were concerned about the snow slope exposure (between pitch 4 and last pitch). We carried avalanche safety gear. Back at the base by noon.
Snow conditions were: Heavy. Weather conditions were: Cloudy, Warm, Windy.
Avalache Conditions: Rapid temperature rise to near zero degrees or wet surface snow.
Lots of moisture in the snow on the approach all the way to the top of the 3 pitch. You could make snowballs by 11:30am.
Temperature was around +1 when we left the vehicle at 7:30. Temperature was around +4-6 by 11:30am.