Anorexia Nervosa & Sth Ghost

<p>Climbed Anorexia yesterday on as close to virgin ice as you get these days. Devils Gap was blowing hard & we experienced spells of intense sprindrift over the climb amongst long periods of calm. I split the route into 2 pitches. The first pitch was brittle to start, but mellowed out further up. There was plenty of ice in the usual 'choke point' to not require mixed moves. You can protect this section of the climb with a 'yellow' screw. The lower bolt at the fixed anchor (top P1) could use a tighten. A 70m rope is needed to lead the rest of the climb in 1 pitch. The final curtain is the crux & is dead vertical. Again, the ice was a bit brittle but not too crazy & protected well. We rapped the route. South Ghost Obs: Weathering Heights has no ice at the bottom & looks in 'mixed conditions' at best. Aquarius is not in, the ice that has formed is very thin Malignant Mushroom looks great Wicked Wanda, first pitch looks ok, upper pitch looks thin & there's a strange snow ledge across the top of the lower pitch (as seen from across the valley) . Travel in & out of the Sth Ghost presented no issues although drifting has begun in the usual places.</p>

Weather Conditions

Sunny, Windy.