Murchison Falls


Although the cornice is present, there is more to worry about with daytime warming than the cornice. There were a few missiles rip past me today & this wasn't cornice. As the day warms up the rocky edges of the climb loosen up, sending down their icy/rocky debris. We bailed because we were traveling too slow & didn't want to deal with the complications solar radiation. Although this is a WI+4 climb, it can way more challenging than something like Carlsberg WI5. The line up left is the 'hard' line, up the centre is more forgiving. FYI, the apron of ice that is usually soloed has a bolted rappel station (at the top) on the RHS. The final approach slope has evidence of previous avalanches, but did not display any sign of instability today. The wind was gusting & seemed to pick up in the afternoon. There was good cloud cover till the afternoon when there were patches of sunshine & it was 'packing a punch'. The trail up was frozen all the way, but soft going down. As others have commented, get it early & get out. The climb is in good shape. VR is shot & My Daddy is more rock than ice, next season for both!

Weather conditions were: Cloudy, Warm, Windy.