Ice - Cascade Falls

<p>We walked around the first pitch which looked soft but wet. Second pitch had some thin spots. Third pitch was decent but wet. After the walk the ice was reasonable and we ended up to the left of the crux pitch. From below it had looked a little mushroomy but would probably go. At the belay I decided I wasn't willing to have an epic on Cascade. The right side was a line of mushrooms with open spots you could see wet rock. There were two gushers bubbling to the surface making the ice pouring wet. The left side was worse. The slab was visibly thin ice with wet rock visible at the edges. It looked too thin for screws and very likely detached from the wet rock. The sun was out and heating it all up. I decided going home was better. As we topped out the lower ice to the walk I initially thought I was observing avi debris. Once closer it appears to be the broken remnants of the climb before it fell a couple weeks ago. Although I don't think any actual avi debris has run down the climb, the snow around the climb does seem to be facetted as per the bulletin. Also of note were one or two smaller rocks falling from above and one fist sized rock that came close to my partner as he lead had I not warned him. The climb needs cooler temps and less sun. </p>

Weather Report

<p>-8c at the car around 8am. Clear skies mid morning made it feel quite warm in the sun. Clouded over as we descended.</p>