Cobra Verde - ice

The route is in thin technical shape. Better suited to experienced competent leaders than new leaders. It felt like the amount of new snowfall varied a bit. Hwy 40 had quite a bit and snow removal was delayed because one of the ploughs had run off the road.. From the parking and past the gate into the yard seemed a little less snow than 40 while through the trees had little on the trail and more in the trees above. The open talus slopes had just enough to reduce the stumbling by giving a little support for walking. It looked like it was still too little snow to create avi hazard yet on the talus and I'm not sure the faceting was very prominent on those slopes. Maybe the old facets melted away and it was primarily the new snow. We were second shift on the climb. The first party only climbed the first pitch and were packing up as we arrived. First pitch is not as well formed as typical. It looks like three possible lines but both parties opted for the left line. Looking to the right at one point I saw a very thin and unsupported shell. I think it would be the middle line in the pic and definitely not recommended. Left line had a couple of holes making for a couple rumours but reasonable pro otherwise. Above the first pitch, the ice bulge was not buried with snow as it sometimes gets and was easy to solo. Might want some shorter screws if you wanted to protect it. Above the bulge, the short pillar looked mank. An open tube with largely collapsed side looked little more than an awful shell. I figured I'd at least take a closer look. Slightly better ice close to the rock provided a good first screw. Delicate climbing with just enough ice still close to the rock provided a solid right tool/crampon. That led to me standing on an old shell with a very new, very thin shell having formed inside it. Solid right tool over the top, an overhanging right crampon and very very delicate left foot in a shell that felt about ready to depart left foot. I did manage to place a short screw above the thin shell but fracturing sounds during its placement did not inspire confidence. I rarely put grades on my reports but if you are just venturing into leading grade 3 you will not want to lead this extremely fragile pillar in its current state. W3 does not do justice to the thin technical nature of the climb. It was however very fun and the most engaging climbing on the route. Above the pillar, the gully was an open cascade. It wasn't too hard to climb but almost no ice. To come down I rapped through trees on climbers right to ensure the rope didn't pull through the water and we held the rope up while pulling near the bottom of the cascade. From where you turn right out of the cascade and up to the final pitch, it was mostly reasonable ice. No idea if thick enough to place a screw but if you made it past the pillar you're likely comfortable soloing it anyway. Last pitch had the best formed climbing on the route. All the way to the top where a little sting in the tail gives you a thin top out. I liked the centre right line but the top out seemed slightly better on the left. Keeping the rope out of water on the descent was the second biggest challenge after the mid route pillar.