Ice - Tasting Fear and others

Grant P

Ice conditions are good. Some bleaching from the temps is barely starting and the ice climbs well and takes good screws. A neat cave between two pillars on the right, and a narrow saddle between the big pillar on the left and the middle makes for interesting features. The easier ice far left is pretty fat up high but some narrow ice off the ground. We had three ropes on the main pillars but didn't climb the easier ice far left. Bridge Too Far was still standing. First pitch seems to be two pillars rather than having filled out to a single curtain. Left pillar had a huge fracture. The upper pitches were looking large and some steep lines, but much of the climb was looking affected by the sun. Kidd Falls had a huge wide first pitch. Second pitch looked skinny by comparison. Sun bleached.

Weather

A cool start but warmed up. Mostly sunny but the climb remains shady. Galatea trail had a dusting of snow in the morning and crunchy walking. By the afternoon it was soft and easy to dig heels in going down some hills but the wet snow would be icy if you were doing it when frozen. Walking cleats would be worth carrying in case you encounter icy trails. 2 people in our group didn't have transceivers but 3 did. We also carried shovel/probes. However the avi runouts we crossed didnt look heavily loaded in the immediate vicinity and even had bare patches showing as we left. Didn't observe any blowing snow and sunny aspects seemed to be melting off. Some signs of pinwheeling.