Quick report
- Cracking
- Observed
Early snow on the north face of Sphinx Mountain usually weakens and facets. To get to ice climbs on the north face, you have to traverse ledges above cliffs. The sketchiest section is turning the corner/shoulder from the west face onto the north face. Winds usually wrap around that corner forming drifts and slabs on top of facets.
You have to be super confident in your stabilty assessments, because even a very small slide would sweep you off cliffs below. This happened in 2004 when two climbers were killed. The third climber was spared only becuase he had stopped to tighten the laces on his boots.
Cracking in hard wind slabs resting on facets