Coire Dubh - ice
Grant P,
Wednesday 23rd October, 2024 9:33PM
<p>**As an ice only venture there's not so much to it. If you're planning on the Integral its better value. We started late and only expected to climb the ice.
**Approached via the east side of the dump having heard something about trail improvements. It still has too much ups and downs, wind slab post holing, and bushwhacking. We left via the west side of the dump.
**First pitch was spicy. Thin ice slab, with snice layers over that, one of which cut loose under my feet, not altogether unexpectedly. There is a piller with good ice near the top but topping out was spicy. You could maybe move left to avoid the pillar but although easy, screws would be tricky. Either way you'll want some short screws. I had three 10's and used them all.
**After the first pitch its a snow slog through the narrows. As it get steeper after the narrows its yet more thin ice, and unsupportive snow over rock.
**Another snow slog to another short step but with reasonable ice.
**Belay station above that is awful. A terrible mangled spinning hanger on a rusty stud. This is backed up by cord around a . This station and others badly need a retrofit.
**Snow around the dump was windslabbed. Snow in the forest was facetted. Snow beside the drainage was somewhat supportive in the morning but more sugary as we left. On the climb it was a combination of supportive slab and facetted sugar.
**Very windy near the dump but on the climb it was rather calm. No signs of sluffing, or snow transport on or above the climb.
**Also noted the climb right of CD was rather more prominent than most years. However lower down the ice looked thin or poorly bonded, but fatter up high. Goat Face Ice Line is the routes name I believe.
**One final observation is the fractures in the snow at the base of the first pitch. Seen while rapping, should one cut loose it would sweep you into the drainage below. Probably unlikely, but we were carrying full avi gear anyway.</p>
Location: 51.09319918 -115.13545909