Ice - Bearspirit
Banff Yoho & Kootenay National Park
Grant P , Tuesday 29th December, 2020 4:25PM
Approach: Good bootpack and the ice steps after the cave are fairly easily negotiated. Only thing some may be unaware of is that the 1a is closed so you cant get to the Fireside parking lot. Instead use the pull off at the end of the off ramp. You can shorten the approach a couple minutes by watching for a well tramped track going uphill just a few metres after the gate which cuts out the Fireside parking. Ice: Right pillar looked to have a good line on the right but the party there seemed to have their rope freeze in occasionally. The wet was actually falling on the left side of that pillar though. The left pillar had a lot of mass but only connected for about half of its girth. It looked to have nice hooking above the thinner section. On the far right side the shorter flow had a couple steep lines and nice climbing although the steepest lines would be tricky to protect given running water was visible through some clear ice. Further right protected nice with 13 and 16's and it was all dry on this flow. A couple of the mixed lines got attention although the right of these had a strenuous transition from the last bolt to ice. Snow: Mostly sheltered snow around here and much of it likely from the last storm. Didn't notice any layers or crusts beside the approach although in the final gully it was fairly sugary. Coming up the creek on the east side away from the approach trail; there were old point releases visible and since covered in newer snow. There were also more recent small pinwheel tracks on the sunny slopes.
Source: Avalanche Canada MIN