Spray River Falls


Got to the base of the climb around 1pm and waited for the sun to go over the mountains. The sun was not hitting the approach slopes much that day (except for maybe a minute as we neared the base of the climb). Approach slopes felt stable but definitely enough snow to trigger a large slab avalanche. Evidence of old avalanche debris at the base of the climb, above the first pitch and on the slopes above the climb. When rappelling down the first pitch from the trees, I was punching through almost hip deep snow. Moderate winds blowing throughout the day and light snow drifts coming down the rocky outcrops on the edge of the falls. The temperature was near or above 0 deg. C. The ice itself felt good. Found quite a few hooks but there was quite a bit of dinner plating. Had a clean the surface of the ice but found good ice after cleaning. Did not lead the crux pitch but partner felt there was quite a bit of dinner plating on that section. On the crux, we seemed to be left of what seemed to be the "normal" line people have been climbing. You can find a dry line on the top out pitch but a portion of it is wet. When rappelling into the cave, be aware of hanging ice dagger on climbers left of the cave. Someone built a good no-thread inside the cave. My intuition is telling me there is still a lot of snow in the avalanche chutes above the climb but I am no avalanche expert.

Weather conditions were: Cloudy, Warm, Windy.