Bridge Too Far - ice

**Approach trail mostly good with occasional icy spots. After leaving the trail and heading up the steep slope to the base of the climb it might have been easier to have micro spikes but we managed without. **First pitch very wet on the left. There is a nice groove up the middle but while getting screws is possible its also challenging because of a lot of chandeliered ice. Combination of hooking and swinging. A steeper line on the right coming out of the cave looks to have good ice for screws but was described as steeper than it looks. Second pitch above the chain anchor had decent ice that protects well but produced a fair bit of fracturing and falling ice that will reach the base of the climb. **Upper ice is very steep on the right and easier as you move left. One party climbed the right side and said despite the chandelier it protected ok but was wetter than it looked. We climbed a groove up the middle that had very wet chandeliered ice on the right but good dry ice on the left that protected great. That led to endless calf burning low angle ice. The fourth pitch had easy ice with some sun effect to it. **The snow field between the upper and lower pitches has avalanched with the debris sitting in an accumulation towards the bottom of the slope. It doesn't look to have gone into the,narrow walk between upper/lower ice or over the,lower pitches.

Slope faces south but runs down from west to east. Crown at top looks to be from wind loading and size is unknown because I had no interest in going up there. A slab of approx 30cm slid on a crust that itself was supportive to some degree but had facets below. The slab slid down the slope below the upper ice and stopped before entering the narrow walk between the 2nd pitch and 3rd pitch on the upper ice. While the slope currently seems somewhat stable, if a further slide enchained this debris it would certainly knock any climber off pitch 1 or 2 and may be a class 2. Date and time of avalanche is unknown but report requires some/any sort of date entering. It looked to be over 48 hrs at least.

Weather forecast said mainly sunny but we were happy to have overcast skies all day. Around 2pm we got a brief spurt of light snow with little accumulation. Winds were calm to very light and temps were pretty mild.