Quick report
On 7/13, Cory and I traversed from the Old Ski Bowl to Helen Lake to attend to camp and assess climbing conditions in Avalanche Gulch. Decent snow coverage remains above Helen to the Red Banks, but this section has melted notably since the last observation on 6/22. As stated in the advisory, a climb is still possible, but mitigating the rockfall hazard is an increasing challenge with more rock exposed in the Trinity Chutes, Red Banks and surrounding outcroppings. Above the Red Banks, Short Hill, Misery Hill and the Summit Pinnacle are mostly snow free whereas the Summit Plateau and flat section above Short Hill are still holding snow. The recommended route is to climb through the Red Banks chutes right of the Heart. Due to exposed rock, we do not recommend climbing to the Thumb. Climbers who start between midnight and 2 AM are reporting firm surfaces and efficient travel, while those starting later are reporting soft, post hole conditions. For those attempting the climb from Bunny Flat, expect to be hiking on dry trail and rock to around 9500 feet if not higher. See below for photographs of current route conditions.