Quick report
Surface hoar was present up to 8000ft. Just below this was breakable crust; the surface hoar was poorly bonded to this. On the sunny aspects the crust was 2-3cm thick while on shady aspects it was just a thin skin. On everything except due north, this sits atop the layer of older surface snow with the 5-6cm supportable crust below; the crust is in varying states of decomposition. (See photo; sorry for mediocre quality.)
However, in due north protected terrain at mid elevation, I found that the crust had decomposed completely, yielding loose sugary snow from the surface downward. This meant the softest turns of the day, but also does not bode well for whenever the next big storm finally arrives. (Some may call my optimism unfounded...and they're probably right. But one can always hope.)
Snowpack
Surface conditions were mediocre, a mixed bag of tracked out, wind affected, crusts, surface hoar, and soft-ish snow here and there. The skin tack is quite well established though, and generally firm surfaces makes for efficient uphill travel.