Avalanche forecast

Mount Shasta

Mount Shasta Avalanche Center
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Avalanche danger

Fri
Alpine
1 · Low
Treeline
1 · Low
Below
1 · Low
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Out of date — this forecast expired 5 months ago. You’re viewing past conditions, not the current bulletin.

Highlights

Crazy warm weather continues. As the snowpack fails to freeze at night and heats up during the day, wet loose avalanches should be on the mind. Once the snow surface turns slushy and you're sinking in past your ankles on those steep, sun-exposed slopes, it's time to move to a cooler aspect or call it a day. 

Watch for icefall and rockfall from the upper mountain. An ice axe, 12-point crampons, and helmet are mandatory. Self-arrest is a crucial mountaineering skill.

Avalanche problems

  • Loose Wet

    • Alpine
    • Treeline
    • Below treeline
    Likelihood
    Possible
    Size
    1–1.5

    Warm temperatures and poor overnight refreeze will keep wet‑snow instability on the problem list today. Highest‑risk areas include sun‑exposed slopes below and near the treeline around heat‑trapping features like rocks, cliffs, and trees, as well as steep, sheltered bowls and terrain that funnels snow, such as gullies and chutes. Be mindful of long, sustained slopes.

    How conditions evolve this week is uncertain. It's up to you to monitor conditions as the day warms. If you’re sinking past your ankles into wet mush or seeing rollerballs and point releases, shift to shadier aspects or gentler terrain. Even small slides can be serious in high‑consequence areas. Give cornices wide clearance from both above and below.

    Example of wet loose avalanches on Gray Butte 

    Photo: Christian Jordan

Avalanche Discussion

We have several great recent observations with photos. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. Make sure to check these out, and more on our obs page.

The climbing season will be early and short this year. Mid‑April through June is usually prime time, but conditions are running far ahead of schedule. Snowpack is roughly half of normal—there’s still 71 inches near treeline on Mount Shasta, but lower elevations are melting out fast.

Climbing conditions are good right now, but honest self‑assessment is crucial. An expert may find Mount Shasta straightforward; a novice may have a very different day. Have the courage to turn back if your skills don’t match the terrain or conditions. As I always like to remind climbers, “...there are moments in mountaineering when one must not fall.”

 Remain vigilant for icefall and rockfall from the upper mountain. Snow surfaces above 10,000 feet can still remain firm and may not soften. A fall could lead to a slide-for-life. Carry a full mountaineering kit: 12‑point crampons (not microspikes), an ice axe, a helmet, and the skills to use them proficiently. Early‑season ascents have more risk than a spring climb and demand a higher experience level. Check the Climbing Advisory page for additional details, or give us a call if you have questions: 530-926-9614.

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