Conditions on the N. Face Bypass

Great day on the N. Face bypass yesterday with Hamish and Kathy. We approached via the N. Glacier using the ledges and found straight forward travel up to the N. Face basin. Clear skies overnight and cool temps made for fast travel on a supportive crust and some hard work kicking steps up the bypass. The snow slope at the base of the black band has receded significantly adding an additional 10m of unprotected downslopy climbing to gain the ledge that leads to the Scottish gulley. There is an option to gain the ledge via a corner feature on the right and it is likely a better alternative. The Scottish gulley had ice/snice the entire length and the remaining ridge travel to the summit was relatively straight forward. We descend via the ramp route (getting steeper every year) with and easy crossing of the bergschrund and good steps. A great refreeze and a cool NE wind kept things locked in and we observed no natural avalanche activity or rockfall. A rare occurrence for July in comparison to the past few summer seasons. Photos of the N. Face basin, Scottish gulley, Silverhorn, Lingering Serac on Hourglass icefall and N. Face bypass slopes.

Hope everyone is enjoying summer!