Avalanche Gulch

The summer trail to the Shasta Alpine Hut (Horse Camp) is clear of snow. A few patches of snow remain between Horse Camp and Spring Hill. Most climbers are now using the summer route on dry ground from Spring Hill to 50/50 Flat (see photos). 

Skiers - continuous snow coverage can be reached around 8,700 feet in the Climber's Gully in Avalanche Gulch - over two miles and nearly two thousand vertical feet from Bunny Flat. In terms of snow surfaces: textured is the rule, smooth is the exception below Helen Lake. That said, some smooth panels of softening, late-spring corn can be found. However, for most skiers in Avalanche Gulch, "the juice is not worth the skis." 

Climbers reported active rockfall in recent days, including at 430am - another reminder that rockfall can occur at any time of the day. Rangers observed plenty of recent rockfall in Avalanche Gulch, both above and below Helen Lake. Wear a helmet, climb and descend early in the day, and minimize your time in areas with overhead hazard to help mitigate this risk. A turnaround time of 12 to 1pm is recommended. 

Climbers on the upper mountain reported extreme winds estimated at over 50 mph on Friday, June 5th and Saturday, June 6th. 

Important Reminders:

• Plan for firm conditions with slide-for-life potential. Crampons, an ice axe, a helmet, and solid self-arrest skills are mandatory. 
• Glissading is possible. However, make sure that the snow is soft and that you can control your speed. Oftentimes, this is well below Thumb Rock. Never glissade with crampons on your boots and never glissade through the Red Banks. 
• Climbing rangers recommend climbing through the Red Banks via one of the snow-filled gullies on the climber's right side of the rock band (see photos). This route avoids the snowbridge behind Thumb Rock and the Konwakiton Glacier bergshrund. 
• Please do your part to help keep Helen Lake and Mount Shasta clean - it takes a village!
• See our updated Climbing Advisory for more details about climbing Mount Shasta.