Avalanche Gulch

One must walk to about 7,400 feet to reach continuous snow coverage in Avalanche Gulch. The route is in generally good shape from there with mostly consistent snow to the summit. Key points from the climb:

-Snow surfaces were firm in the morning hours at all elevations. Icy, slick surfaces with slide-for-life potential existed above Helen Lake (10,400 feet). An ice axe, crampons, a helmet, and the skills to use them well - including self-arrest - are mandatory for a climb of Mount Shasta. 

-Rime ice continues to shed from the upper Avalanche Gulch/Trinity Chutes area. Although most pieces observed were small, larger chunks can be extremely dangerous. Always wear a helmet while climbing and use caution in the "Bowling Alley" in Avalanche Gulch (see photos). Rockfall hazard will increase as the heat wave continues and snow melts. 

-It is possible to climb to Thumb Rock and gain the top of the Red Banks via a narrow snow bridge. However, snow surfaces here were punchy, and the Konwakiton Glacier bergshrund lurks just below on the climber's right. For this reason, climbing rangers recommend ascending the Red Banks through one of the snow-filled gullies on the climber's right side of the Red Banks, rather than traveling all the way to the Thumb (see photos). As a reminder, do not glissade through the Red Banks. 

-Snow on Misery Hill is very shallow and melting out quickly. It may be possible to ski from the base of the summit pinnacle back to the top of Avalanche Gulch on the south side of Misery, but there are plenty of rocks and skis or boards will probably have to be removed at points to traverse dry ground. Leaving skis at the base of Misery Hill/top of Avalanche Gulch would be the most prudent move at this time. 

-The summit pinnacle is plastered in rime ice. The recommended route is to the climber's left of the spires. Remain vigilant for falling rime in this zone.

-Snow surfaces on southerly aspects softened at all elevations around midday. Snow on the upper mountain was variable, transitioning to supportable corn snow at mid elevations, and mushy, heavy snow below about 8,500 feet. Wet avalanches remain on the list of watch-outs with the warm daytime temperatures and poor overnight refreezes. Travel early while snow surfaces are most supportable to help mitigate this hazard, and move to mellower terrain if you observe signs of unstable wet snow.

Please do your part to help keep Mount Shasta clean this weekend. See our updated Climbing Advisory for more details about climbing Mount Shasta.