Lawinenlagebericht

Mount Shasta

Mount Shasta Avalanche Center
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Lawinengefahr

Fri
Hochgebirge
2 · Mässig
Waldgrenze
2 · Mässig
Unterhalb
2 · Mässig
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Veraltet — dieser Lagebericht ist last year abgelaufen. Du siehst vergangene Verhältnisse, nicht den aktuellen Bericht.

Kernpunkte

Overnight temperatures remained above freezing, and with a warm day ahead, wet loose avalanches and weakening cornices will remain the primary mountain hazards today. Once snow surfaces begin to lose cohesion and deep, wet snow is encountered, it’s a clear sign to exit avalanche terrain.

Additionally, many exposed rock features on Mount Shasta are coated in rime ice. These chunks will inevitably break loose and tumble down onto slopes below—some with enough mass to cause serious injury. Wear a helmet, and avoid lingering beneath overhead hazards like Redbanks.

Lawinenprobleme

  • Loose Wet

    • Hochgebirge
    • Waldgrenze
    • Unterhalb der Waldgrenze
    Wahrscheinlichkeit
    Possible
    Größe
    1–1.5

    Overnight air temperatures remained above freezing across most elevations, limiting the potential for a solid snow surface refreeze. While clear skies may have contributed to a superficial refreeze on the surface, this will melt rapidly with early morning sun and continued warming.

    In alpine terrain, moderate winds may delay surface warming, particularly on shaded aspects and wind-exposed ridgelines. However, this effect will be localized, and most slopes will transition to wet, unsupportable conditions as the day progresses. These conditions will increase the potential for wet loose avalanche activity, especially on steep, solar-affected terrain.

    To avoid this problem, timing is everything. Start early, end early. Monitor changing snow surface as melting occurs. Once the snow becomes wet and unsupportable, it's time to exit avalanche terrain.

  • Cornices

    • Hochgebirge
    • Waldgrenze
    • Unterhalb der Waldgrenze
    Wahrscheinlichkeit
    Likely
    Größe
    1–2

    Sagging and failing cornices have been observed throughout the forecast area, particularly in the Eddy Mountains and Castle Lake zones. Continued warm temperatures will further weaken these features and increase the likelihood of failure.

    The bottom line: give these massive cornices a wide berth—both when traveling along ridgelines and on slopes below. Use natural indicators like exposed rocks or trees to help identify terra firma.

    Photo: Nick Meyers

Avalanche Discussion

We are winding down avalanche center operations and gearing up for climbing ranger mode. Our last forecast of the season will be Sunday, April 13th. Not to worry though as recent observations, climbing route info, pictures and climbing advisory updates will continue. Things are about to get real warm next week. For good climbing and skiing conditions, it's juggling the daily flow of temp, wind, sun, aspect and elevation. Spring has arrived.

Climbing season is upon us, but unfortunately, the Everitt Memorial Highway, which provides access to Bunny Flat and all south and west side routes, remains closed. While rumors may be circulating, here’s the official word: the Siskiyou County Roads Department is at the mercy of their equipment. Crews are waiting on the delivery of a new rotary blower to continue snow removal operations. Snow clearing will begin once the new equipment arrives, which is expected within the next week or two. While an exact opening date has not been provided, rest assured, the county is aware of the importance of opening this key access route. The road will open ASAP, and we will keep you posted.

Climbers will need to start adjacent to the McBride Springs Campground on the 41N56 road. The route begins on a 4x4 road and follows the Cascade Gulch drainage up to Horse Camp. There is not a continuous road to Horse Camp, so route finding is required. This adds roughly an additional 3 miles and 3,000 feet of vertical gain to the climb. Overnight parking is allowed in the large pullout just across from the 41N56 road.

A note on weather: April on Mount Shasta can bring anything and everything—if you don’t like the weather, just wait 10 minutes! The key takeaway here is that conditions can change rapidly. A clear, calm day can quickly shift to whiteout conditions. Every year, climbers get lost on the upper mountain. As you crest Redbanks and gain the Summit Plateau, poor visibility can make it easy to descend the wrong side of the mountain. Always check the forecast before your climb and remain vigilant about weather conditions during your ascent. Pay close attention to any changes in visibility, wind, or temperature as you go higher.

Slips and Falls: This is one of our most common accidents...slips, trips and falls on smooth, hard snow resulting in a long sliding fall. The lower half of Mount Shasta is pretty friendly terrain, but the upper half brings the meat and potatoes. Know how to use your ice axe and crampons. Self-arrest is a crucial skill to have. Practice on a slope of non-consequence, with soft snow. Self-arrest is a move that needs to happen fast. Once up to speed, it's very hard to stop, even for an experienced mountaineer. 

Despite being 15 minutes off Interstate 5, Mount Shasta is the real deal and should be taken seriously.  Quick and timely rescue is not always possible. Plan and prepare properly. Be honest with your skills and abilities. Sometimes the mountain says come on up, and sometimes it says get out of here. Pay attention!

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